UK material science company The Unseen has partnered with bio-based pigment manufacturer Living Ink to debut the latter’s Algae Black product in a new line of cosmetics called Absorption.

The Unseen is the first company to launch a cosmetics product made from Living Ink’s Algae Black innovation, which is a sustainable, climate-positive alternative to the petroleum-based black carbon pigment found in eyeliner, mascaras and shadows.

The material science startup’s cosmetics arm, The Unseen Beauty, is rolling out Absorption, a range of products made from Algae Black, starting with a lengthening mascara and long-wearing pencil eyeliner, which will launch later this month. It marks a breakthrough in an industry that faces regulatory obstacles for new colourants, and relies on products derived from finite, planet-harming sources.

“After five years of R&D, we filed Algae Black under the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients,” The Unseen founder Lauren Bowker told the Financial Times.

A highly sustainable black carbon alternative

Living Ink is a Colorado-based pigment manufacturer that is scaling carbon removal tech to tackle the climate crisis. Having secured $3.5M in funding co-led by the US Department of Energy last year, it is offering Algea Black as a “drop-in” replacement to black carbon pigments, and already supplies the likes of Nike, New Balance, Coach, American Eagle and Patagonia.

Black pigment solutions are often derived from petroleum-based sources like crude oil, natural gas or coal. Each year, 8.1 million tonnes of carbon black are produced globally, but its excessive use has been correlated with organ harm and cancer (it’s a Group 2B carcinogen, making it possibly carcinogenic to humans).

Another black colourant, iron oxide, is obtained through mining or chemical synthesis, which leads to soil erosion, habitat loss and biodiversity decline. Mining can also pollute water and air by releasing harmful pollutants, while consuming high amounts of energy that subsequently emit more greenhouse gases.

Algae Black makes use of waste algae biomass that is otherwise destined for landfill. Featuring a 100% renewable raw material, it is produced through a pyrolysis process, which burns it without using oxygen. That prevents the carbon stored by the algae from turning into carbon dioxide, instead forming a char that serves as a pigment. And to achieve substantial carbon cuts, large-scale production and utilisation of the pigment are vital.

While traditional production methods emit about 4kg of CO2 per kg of carbon black. Algae Black, however, has the opposite effect, decreasing carbon emissions by 200%. “For every litre of Algae Black, we remove four litres of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere,” Bowker explained. “It’s bonkers.”

That means using 45 lbs of algae ink can save 22.5 lbs of petroleum. But that’s not all – Algae Black also removes 59kg of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, which is the equivalent of planting four trees, given the seaweed absorbs and stores CO2 over a century. Additionally, the manufacturing process saves 98% of water and 400 tonnes of algae waste every year.

The Unseen Beauty advances its eco credentials

The Unseen has an unparalleled pedigree in colour sustainability and innovation. It has worked with the likes of the UK’s National Health Service to make smart bandages that change colour when they need to be replaced, the UN on a T-shirt that changes colour based on the pH of the water it’s washed in, Virgin Galactic on thermal-tracking patches for spacesuits, and even Puma on speed-reactive sportswear.

So far, it has released Colour Alchemy Hair, a hyper-coloured hair dye that needs no bleaching, and Spectra, an eye colour that transforms into bright silver under a camera flash. Its collaboration with Living Ink – whose colourant has already won the IFSCC Sustainability Challenge award – marks The Unseen Beauty’s third product launch.

The Absorption collection comprises ophthalmologically and dermatologically approved, non-toxic colour cosmetics. Extending the sustainability credentials, the smudge-proof mascara and pencil liner also come in plastic-free packaging, instead housed in a cellulose barrel made from the carbon-negative algae pigment.

“Absorption Algae Black not only offers a climate-positive alternative to polluting carbon black, but also signifies a crucial step in reducing environmental impact and meeting the demand for sustainable options in the beauty sector,” the company states on its website. “The Absorption collection marks a significant shift in cosmetic colour production, aligning with The Unseen Beauty’s mission to pioneer innovative and conscious choices in colour cosmetics.”

Other brands making sustainable pigments include Graviky Labs (whose water-based black Air-Ink is made from air pollution), Octarine Bio (which makes microbially fermented colourants), Huee (which is producing microbial indigo), and Nature Coatings (whose BioBlack TX is a carbon-negative black pigment).

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The Body Shop has announced that its UK and German operations have gone into administration, with its business in other countries also in jeopardy. How did it get here, and what’s next?

A pioneer of cruelty-free beauty and a beloved brand for millions around the world, The Body Shop last week entered administration in the UK and Germany, three months after it changed hands in a deal worth £207M.

The move puts the jobs of more than 2,600 people at risk, and has left its fair trade suppliers in vulnerable countries with over $1M worth of ingredients and stock that may never be paid for. It comes after the brand witnessed disappointing sales over the Christmas period, and it emerged that the cosmetics label had insufficient working capital.

The 48-year-old business is now in jeopardy. Here’s what happened, and what happens next.

The rise and fall of The Body Shop

Founded by human rights and environmental activist Dame Anita Roddick, the Body Shop grew from a small shop in Brighton to a global business with about 3,000 stores in over 70 countries. Famed for its emphasis on ethics, it was the world’s first cosmetics brand to commit to zero animal testing, way back in 1989.

Roddick was a champion of ethical consumerism and was the face of the company as it won over consumers – especially teenagers – for its cruelty-free products, including bath pearls, body butters, fruit soaps, White Musk fragrance, Hemp hand cream, and the famous Dewberry Perfume Oil.

After three decades of family ownership, The Body Shop entered the corporate world after Roddick sold it to French personal care giant L’Oréal for £652M in 2006. This attracted criticism from many of the brand’s consumers, who labelled it as a betrayal of its ethics and identity, given that L’Oréal’s products had been linked to animal testing and the company was part-owned by Nestlé.

In 2017, L’Oréal sold The Body Shop to Brazilian beauty giant Natura for £880M. But by this time, The Body Shop was no longer the be-all and end-all of the ethical beauty world. After the EU had introduced a blanket ban on animal testing in cosmetics in 2013, its brand identity wasn’t as distinguishable as it once was.

Its product portfolio became more dictated by trends, eliminating fan-favourite SKUs and introducing items thought of as untrue to its identity. There was also a case of too many launches, which clouded out the focus and fuelled already existing overconsumption patterns. The company has – like many – been forced to raise prices, but that has diverted many towards cheaper replicas of its products as the cost-of-living crisis bites.

Many of its customers flocked to competitors like Neal’s Yard, Aesop, Bath and Body Works, and Lush. The latter, for instance, is a business that champions animal welfare, sustainability and workers’ rights too, but is, crucially, still independently owned. There was a sense that The Body Shop – a company that had always been ahead of its time – had stopped evolving with time. Winning over newer consumers, especially Gen Zers, became a challenge.

Last year, The Body Shop – which employs over 10,000 people – was sold once again, but this time to a German private investment firm called Aurelius, which hoped to reinvigorate the brand. However, less than three months later, the cosmetics label is now in all sorts of trouble.

Financial woes lead to administration

Reports began surfacing earlier this month that The Body Shop – which transformed its entire portfolio to be vegan-friendly last year – was set to appoint administrators, a move aimed at saving the business from liquidity or collapse.

It came a month after Aurelius announced it was selling off The Body Shop’s loss-making operations in most of mainland Europe and parts of Asia to “an international family office”, which is understood to be Alma24, whose majority shareholder Friedrich Trautwein has close ties with Aurelius. The Body Shop’s Ireland and Japan businesses are part of the deal.

“This further prioritises the Body Shop’s strategically important markets and global head franchise partner relationships, which it will look for opportunities to build,” the company told Retail Week at the time. “The Body Shop will also focus on more effectively reaching customers by strengthening digital platforms, developing new sales channels, and via differentiated retail experiences.”

And last week, the company – which recorded a £71M loss in its latest accounts in 2022, down from a £10M profit – appointed administrators for its home market of the UK, where it has over 200 stores, as well as a head office and a distribution centre. “The Body Shop has faced an extended period of financial challenges under past owners, coinciding with a difficult trading environment for the wider retail sector,” said the administrators.

This was swiftly followed by the company entering administration in Germany, where it has more than 400 employees and 60 stores. Staff in Belgium were told that the operation there would face the same fate soon. “The actions being taken may not be wrong, but it is how it is being done that is breaking people’s hearts,” one source told the Guardian. “People are being told with no notice: ‘You work for an unnamed family company,’ when some of these people have been with the company for years, some 30 years. It is so painful.”

Aurelius has faced criticism for its cut-price takeover of the beauty brand, which valued the company at £670M less than what Nature had paid for it six years ago. The private equity firm is facing allegations of failure to make payments worth £3M to around 20 former employees last month.

Is The Body Shop closing down?

It’s unlikely that The Body Shop will completely disappear, but there will likely be a sea change in the business’s operations. “Administrators will now consider all options to find a way forward for the business and will update creditors and employees in due course,” the company has said, while conforming that it will continue to trade during this period, both in-store and online.

It’s important to note that this doesn’t spell doom for The Body Shop everywhere. While it’s expected to fall into administration in Ireland, Austria and Luxembourg too, its Canada and Australia operations – where it remains successful – are anticipated to remain open.

It’s unclear what this means for The Body Shop in the US, or even in France, Sweden and Spain, where directors haven’t signed documents finalising a transfer of ownership. As the company explained, the administration period “provides the stability, flexibility and security to find the best means of securing the future of The Body Shop and revitalising this iconic British brand”.

While it’s too early to tell how things will pan out, some say there will be a focus on cost reduction – including on property and rents – and building greater online presence. Others expect the brand to survive, but with far fewer stores (numbering 100 in the UK), with Aurelius a likely buyer for a diluted business. Next, the UK’s largest clothing company and parent of Reiss, Victoria’s Secret UK, GAP UK and Cath Kidston (among others), is also thought to be in the running.

One industry expert told the Guardian that The Body Shop wasn’t a brand that could work as a wholesaler. Instead, it would require a chain to ensure efficient communication about ethical sourcing. “If you stick a few products on a shelf in Boots, you would lose the magic,” they said.

It highlights the problem for the cruelty-free beauty pioneer – no one can seem to agree on what to do next. There are hopes that the company can be restructured to appeal to younger shoppers and compete with the likes of Lush, for instance. But there’s a feeling that e-commerce might be the most viable course of action next. For others, there’s a brick-and-mortar charm that is irreplaceable for a company like The Body Shop.

Most agree on one thing though: this is a brand steeped in nostalgia, and they don’t want to see it go. At a time when animal welfare, ethical sourcing, environmental sustainability, and vegan personal care are crucial, it would be against the grain for The Body Shop to say goodbye. Time will tell if it can bounce back.

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With leading beauty conglomerates announcing new beauty lines featuring recombinant collagen, the potential for China to be a leader in the synthetic biotechnology ingredient industry.

In December 2023, the leading international beauty brand, L’Oréal launched the second generation of its Age Perfect Collagen Royal Anti-Aging Face Cream, tailored exclusively for the discerning Chinese market. This groundbreaking release marked a pivotal moment for L’Oréal Paris skincare as it introduced the pioneering inclusion of recombinant collagen into its product line for the very first time, and also marks an important step in the commercialization of the recombinant collagen industry. The recombinant collagen incorporated into this formulation is said to feature an amino acid sequence that claims 100% homology to type III collagen found in human skin. Its touted unique triple-helix flexible bending structure purportedly allows this collagen variant to seamlessly interact with the skin’s natural collagen, potentially stimulating collagen production at its core. 

L’Oréal’s launch of this product seems to underscore their commitment to capitalizing on scientific advancements and biotech innovations in skin care. More importantly, the entry of international brand L’Oréal has made China’s hot recombinant protein market even more topical. 

What is collagen?

There are at least 28 identified types of collagen, classified according to homology and biological function, each characterized by distinct structures and varying prevalence in the animal body. Collagen is crucial for various functions, including skin elasticity, joint flexibility, hair and nail well-being, and overall tissue health. Its versatility is evident in skin care, where collagen is a common ingredient, potentially imparting anti-ageing effects and promoting smoother, resilient skin. The pharmaceutical field utilizes collagen in medical treatments, wound healing, and regenerative medicine due to its biocompatibility and bioactive properties. Collagen’s influence extends beyond healthcare into the food industry, where it plays a role in dietary supplements, functional foods, and beverages. This multifaceted protein serves as a cornerstone in addressing diverse health and cosmetic needs, highlighting its significance across healthcare, skincare, and nutrition. Moreover, in the culinary world, collagen is used as a gelling agent and thickener, particularly in broths and gelatinous desserts.

Collagen can be manufactured through two primary methods: natural extraction and synthetic biotechnology. In the natural extraction process, collagen is derived from animal sources like cattle, pigs, and marine animals. Typically, collagen is extracted from specific animal parts, such as the skin, bones, or scales. On the other hand, synthetic biotechnology employs genetically engineered microorganisms, such as bacteria and yeast, to express collagen. The resulting product, known as recombinant collagen, undergoes fermentation and downstream purification processes.

The ascent of recombinant collagen has captured significant attention, driven by its advanced biotechnological approach that ensures precise control over collagen characteristics and the production of high-purity products. Noteworthy advantages encompass enhanced safety features, such as heightened hydrophilicity, reduced immune rejection, and robust processability, addressing concerns linked to animal-derived collagen. Its positive environmental impact is evident in the elimination of the need for animal husbandry and fishing practices, thereby contributing to marine biodiversity conservation and improved animal welfare. This innovation also eliminates the requirement for cold chain transportation, facilitating easy storage and offering a more sustainable alternative. As fermentation preparation scales up, the economic viability of recombinant collagen increases. 

Despite these advantages, challenges persist in the commercialization process, focusing on the expression of the triple helix structure, gene fragment selection, triple helix structure construction, and overcoming obstacles in cell transfection and protein purification. While recombinant collagen is still in its early commercialization stage, the current emphasis is on scaling up production and reducing costs to facilitate broader adoption.

The history of recombinant collagen in China

Research into recombinant collagen in China has a substantial history. In the 2000s, a research team initiated the exploration of synthetic biology technology for developing recombinant collagen. This effort eventually culminated in the establishment of the first publicly listed company in this domain, Xi’an Giant Biogene. Notably, in 2014, Nanjing University of Science and Technology collaborated with Jiangsu Jland Biotech to jointly undertake the “Key technologies for high-density fermentation of genetically engineered bacteria to express collagen, efficient separation processes, and their Industrialization” project as part of the China National High-tech Research and Development Program, commonly known as the 863 Program. This initiative has since led to the incubation of numerous research and commercialization projects in the field.  

The start of 2024 brings optimistic developments to the industry. Jiangsu Trautec, a recombinant collagen company backed by Japanese beauty brand Shiseido and French luxury brand LVMH, initiated the process of registering for listing guidance with the Jiangsu Securities Regulatory Bureau on January 8. This marks a promising start for the sector. As of today, it is estimated that more than 30 companies are actively developing and commercializing recombinant collagen pipelines in China. Jiangsu Trautec, Jiangsu Jland Biotech, Shanxi Jinbo Biopharmaceuticals (a supplier of recombinant collagen ingredients to L’Oréal), and Xi’an Giant Biogene currently stand at the forefront of the industry.

Recombinant collagen: the economic opportunity

According to research by Frost & Sullivan, the retail sales for China’s animal-derived collagen and recombinant collagen markets in 2021 are projected to be 17.9 billion yuan (2.77 billion USD) and 10.8 billion yuan (1.67 billion USD), respectively. The CAGRs from 2017 to 2021 of animal-derived collagen and recombinant collagen markets stand at 21.8% and 63.0%, respectively. The collagen market is anticipated to sustain a robust growth trajectory in the coming years. By 2027, the overall size of China’s collagen product market is estimated to reach 173.8 billion yuan (24.42 billion USD), exhibiting a CAGR of 34.3%. Within this, the CAGR for recombinant collagen is forecasted to be 42.4%, surpassing that for collagen derived from animal sources at 25.3%. The expected increase in the penetration rate of recombinant collagen from 37.7% in 2021 to 62.3% in 2027 is noteworthy, indicating a substantial market shift. Consequently, the market size for recombinant collagen is predicted to reach 108.3 billion yuan (15.22 billion USD).

The recombinant collagen startup landscape

For example, Liven Proteins is a Canada-based company focused on the production of animal-free collagen ingredients for China and the global market. Liven uniquely plays in the food and nutrition sector, particularly focusing on functional foods, beverages, and nutraceuticals to support healthy ageing. In comparison with collagen for skin, hair and nails, collagen ingredients for health benefits, such as Type II collagen for joint health, are premium ingredients with 10-100x price compared with commodity collagen. Odourless and completely soluble, Liven’s ingredients also offer adaptability for creating consumer-friendly products that meet the increasing demand for health-conscious choices.

Other recognizable international players in the field of recombinant collagen encompass Avantor, ProColl, Merck, ACROBiosystems, Geltor, and Jellatech. Still, with the fast development and commercialization in China, it will be difficult for China to be left behind, not only for collagen but in all coming applications in the recombinant protein space. As of today, there are numerous examples of Chinese companies’ successful commercialization of fermentation products and holding leading positions in the subsectors, such as hyaluronic acid, amino acids, and erythritol.

The development of the recombinant collagen market in China for skincare applications is indicative of the increasing power of synthetic biology to replace traditional animal-based sources. The application of recombinant collagen in the medical and cosmetics industries is just the beginning. We expect that with the development of technology and the expansion of production scale, recombinant collagen will soon be applied in other areas with lower cost structures, such as nutraceuticals, functional foods and beverages, and even bulk raw materials for food production. 

This post was authored by Rouyu Wu, Director of Investment and Innovation at Dao Foods. For a more in-depth view of China’s developments in fermentation and new proteins, download The New Protein Adoption in China Report.

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New York-based C16 Biosciences has received a $3.5M grant from the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, in addition to a $1M investment in October, to expand its Palmless platform and accelerate its path to regulatory approval.

C16 Biosciences, which makes precision-fermented palm oil alternatives, has earned fresh funding in the form of a $3.5M grant from the Gates Foundation, as well as a $1M equity investment by Elemental Excelerator in October, bringing its total funding to $34M.

This isn’t the first time Bill Gates has backed the company financially, his VC fund Breakthrough Energy Ventures led C16’s $20M Series A round in 2020. C16 aims to use the latest investments to continue the growth of its palm oil alternative platform, Palmless, create a proof of concept for products for the food and personal care industries, and advance regulatory approval.

“C16 Biosciences is taking pivotal steps to scale sustainable solutions, starting with palm oil alternatives for consumer products and food,” said Elemental Excelerator founder and CEO Dawn Lippert. “This is an excellent example of how innovation can reshape industries, in this case by replacing an ingredient that is a major contributor to deforestation and the displacement of Indigenous communities.”

C16 Biosciences aims to replace palm oil in the food industry

Founded in 2017, C16 employs precision fermentation to make sustainable and ethical alternatives to palm oil, with a biomanufacturing process that leverages yeast instead of plants. It plans to use the grant funding from the Gates Foundation to expand its consumer brand platform Palmless – which was unveiled in 2022 – by creating food-grade fats and oils via “next-generation”, non-agriculturally derived feedstocks.

To be received over three years, the capital will allow C16 to hire additional R&D staff to support its “novel approach to food security”. The startup says it can unlock a circular economy model that can produce food products and ingredients without dependence on arable land.

The company first began with products for the beauty industry under the Palmless brand, creating Torula oil, which is said to be nearly chemically and functionally identical to palm oil. A USDA BioPreferred-certified oil, it was the base ingredient for the Palmless Save the F#$%ing Rainforest Nourishing Oil, as well as the Rewild Body Block, a soap bar jointly developed by Pangaia and Haeckels. Both these products sold out within 24 hours.

A Best Cell-Based Ingredient winner at FoodBev’s World Cell-Based Innovation Awards 2023, C16 now wants to focus on the food industry. “Creating better oils and fats for use in food has been a critical part of our company’s ambition and strategy from day one, but we’ve waited strategically for the right moment to enter the market,” said C16 co-founder and CEO Shara Ticku.

“Now that we’ve scaled our manufacturing to commercial-scale production and begun generating revenue in the personal care industry, we are ready and eager to expand our solution’s application set to produce high-performance, scalable ingredients for food,” she added. To advance the startup’s efforts, it will use the $1M investment from Elemental Excelerator to pursue FDA Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) status.

The company’s feasibility studies have showcased how its oil can work as a deforestation-free replacement for palm oil in foods like ice creams, chocolate and bakery items. C16 is also looking into dairy products and spreads, proteins, infant formula and nutraceuticals, with plans to extend into the home and personal care categories via products like laundry detergent, shampoos and surface cleaners. It has already collaborated with “dozens of beauty brands” to launch products this year.

Palm oil alternatives crop up globally

Palm oil – present in half of all supermarket items, across every category – is a major driver of tropical deforestation, with 90% of the world’s palm oil trees located in the rainforests of Indonesia and Malaysia. One estimate suggests that tropical deforestation is responsible for nearly 20% of all GHG emissions annually.

As the most widely produced oil in the world – accounting for 40% of the total – its production has increased tenfold since 1980, and is set to grow by another 50% by mid-century. The high demand has led to rainforests being cleared and various species killed to make way for palm plantations. Additionally, the industry is linked to human rights abuses, with Indigenous communities losing their lands and villages, and workers exploited with poor working conditions and pay.

But palm oil is ubiquitous in the food industry, thanks to its unique characteristics. It works as a natural preservative, has no taste, smell or colour, is solid at room temperature (owing to the high saturated fat content), and can withstand high temperatures. ). “Palm-based fat works particularly well in bakery products due to its composition, taste and mouthfeel. For example, it helps produce cakes which are light, with a good taste profile which has a pleasant mouthfeel,” explains Catriona Liddle, a scientist at Edinburgh’s Queen Margaret University.

She co-led the development of PALM-ALT, a plant-based fat made from food industry sidestream ingredients that she describes as the “holy grail” of palm oil substitutes. It’s a burgeoning category aiming to disrupt a $70B industry, with a host of startups coming up with new innovations. Fellow British firm Clean Food Group, for example, is making a fermentation-based palm oil alternative too.

In Europe, Estonian startup Äio uses byproducts from agricultural sidestreams for its version – like PALM-ALT – while Dutch company NoPalm Ingredients makes use of waste feedstocks like discarded produce and peelings to make its microbial-fermented substitute. Also in the Netherlands, Time-Travelling Milkman employs sunflower seeds to make a fat alternative that can replace palm oil in various applications. And German alt-chocolate producer ChoViva is working on a palm oil alternative as well.

In the US, Bay Area firm Kiverdi is making a sustainable substitute to palm oil using captured carbon, and Wisconsin-based Xylome has developed a yeast-derived alternative called Yoil. Meanwhile, the offering by San Diego’s Genomatica – backed by Unilever – is suited for personal, home and cleaning products, and Ohio-based Locus Ingredients’ alternative is similar, using fermentation to replace palm-based ingredients and chemical surfactants.

Finally, scientists at Singapore’s Nanyang Technical University are working on replacing palm oil with microalgae fat, which is said to have better health and eco credentials.

“When we look at the problems associated with the palm oil industry – from deforestation to greenhouse gas emissions – creating a viable alternative in food represents a tremendous opportunity to make a real impact,” said C16’s Shiru.

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Ahead of a Series A round next year, UK biotech firm Clean Food Group has raised £2.3M in funding to accelerate the commercialisation of its fermentation-based fat, which it describes as a sustainable replacement for palm oil. The investment will also help advance regulatory and commercial approvals for the yeast-derived palm oil alternative.

The funding round included parties like Döhler, Alianza Team and Agronomics (which has made several investments in cultivated meat companies). The latter previously invested £900,500 in Clean Food Group last June and contributed £700,000 in this round. Agronomics executive director and Clean Food Group co-chair Jim Mellon also participated with a £50,000 investment. It brought the firm’s total funding to £10M.

The capital raised will help Clean Food Group to scale up its tech platform and advance through the regulatory and commercial ladders. The food tech company is planning to complete a Series A round next year, which will help finance a commercial-scale manufacturing plant. Before the series A, the firm expects its yeast-based palm oil alternative will be ready for commercialisation, with a “clear line of sight to near-term revenue generation”.

A 10-year research journey

Built on over £7.5 million of UK government funding, Clean Food Group’s tech platform follows 10 years of research led by its technical lead, University of Bath Professor Chris Chuck. The proprietary tech uses proven, scalable oleaginous yeast strains and fermentation processes, and feeds it with food waste to create sustainable alternatives to traditional oil and fat ingredients.

The sidestream valorisation means it’s part of a circular economy, with the added bonus of 90% fewer greenhouse gas emissions than terrestrial oils. The fats are created using a non-GMO and vegan-friendly process run on renewable energy.

Clean Food Group plans to make product batches for regulatory approval in cosmetics and food applications by the end of 2023, and hopes to launch its product in the coming years given the regulatory path for non-GMO processes in the UK and EU is less stringent than for those with genetically modified ingredients.

“The successful conclusion of this current funding round validates the important strides our business is taking in solving critical sustainability and supply chain challenges facing our food and cosmetic manufacturer customers,” said Clean Food Group co-founder and CEO Alex Neves.

He added: “We are now in a great position to validate our technology at a commercial scale, advance our regulatory pathways and develop our growing list of commercial partners in advance of our Series A next year.”

The planet’s palm oil problem

Creating an alternative to a climate-harming fat is a major win. Palm oil is present in half of all supermarket items – across every product category. But it’s a major driver of deforestation, with rainforests cleared and various species killed to make way for palm oil plantations. Production of the oil has increased tenfold since 1980, and is set to increase by another 50% by 2050.

This kind of demand pushes producers to burn down more forests, a form of mass deforestation that emits greenhouse gases and eliminates trees that help absorb these very emissions. A 2020 study found that the drainage of young palm oil leads to a 50% increase in carbon emissions.

It’s also a critical threat to wildlife including orangutans – 50% of whom are found outside national parks due to deforestation – and rhinos. The industry is also linked with human rights violations, with Indigenous communities losing their lands and villages, and workers exploited with poor working conditions and pay.

Other companies are also innovating with sustainable palm oil alternatives. New York-based climate tech startup C16 Biosciences has created a Palmless Torula oil, using microbes grown in bioreactors. Chemically and functionally identical to palm oil, the fat was used in a soap bar by British material science firm Pangaia and skincare label Haeckels.

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Using New York-based climate tech startup C16 Biosciences’ Palmless Torula oil, British material science firm Pangaia and skincare label Haeckels have together created the Rewild Body Block. The limited-edition soap bar is a sustainable alternative to palm oil variants, and is scented with natural oils to evoke the smell of rainforests burning down – spotlighting how biodiversity is cleared for palm oil plantations.

The microbial Torula oil is part of Bill Gates-backed C16’s Palmless brand, which was unveiled in 2022. Using naturally occurring organisms and fermentation, the oil is grown in bioreactors and is nearly chemically and functionally identical to palm oil – an infamously unsustainable oil. This sustainable, biomanufactured fat has inspired a collaboration between Pangaia and Haeckels, who have created a climate-friendly soap with a stock of only 200 bars.

Palm oil’s climate problem

A notoriously climate-destructive oil, palm oil is present in half of all supermarket items – across every product category. But it’s a major driver of deforestation, with rainforests cleared and various species killed to make way for palm oil plantations. Production of the oil has increased tenfold since 1980, and is set to increase by another 50% by 2050.

This kind of demand pushes producers to burn down more forests, a form of mass deforestation that emits greenhouse gas while removing trees that help absorb these emissions in the first place. A 2020 study found that the drainage of young palm oil leads to a 50% increase in carbon emissions.

It’s also a critical threat to wildlife including orangutans – 50% of whom are found outside national parks due to deforestation – and rhinos. The industry is also linked with human rights violations, with Indigenous communities losing their lands and villages, and workers exploited with poor working conditions and pay.

Additionally, 90% of the world’s palm oil trees are located in the rainforests of Indonesia and Malaysia, and they have been directly linked to deforestation in these regions. In August 2019, Indonesian forests were engulfed by wildfires caused directly by palm plantation trees. And according to one estimate, tropical deforestation accounts for about 20% of all greenhouse gas emissions annually.

All this makes the use of palm oil a massive issue. It first replaced animal-based ingredients in personal care products like soaps, shampoos, lotions and makeup, and now, 70% of personal care items contain one or more palm oil derivatives.

A sustainable vegetable oil

In light of these facts, innovations like the Palmless Tarula oil seem more urgent and needed than ever before. “Palmless was born [out] of dissatisfaction,” Margaret Rimsky Richards, global marketing head at C16, told Dazed Digital. “Our founders witnessed firsthand the devastation created by the palm oil industry and wondered why we are still making products linked to such destruction. They wanted to do better as we face the urgent mandate of climate change.”

The process of creating the Tarula oil takes through fermentation seven days – significantly less than the seven years it takes for an agricultural palm tree to yield oil. The £30 beige Rewild Body Block, which comes in cotton and bamboo packaging, leverages seaweed extract, squalene, aloe vera, mandarin peel and vetiver root to complement the woodsy aroma.

“We set out to create a sustainable alternative to palm oil and in the process developed a novel oil that functions like palm oil, but is also bursting with other great stuff – carotenoids such as beta carotene, torulene and sterols such as ergosterol, a powerful provitamin D,” explained Richards.

She added: “We’re certainly betting on Palmless playing a significant role – not only in helping satisfy the explosive global demand for palm oil without having to further rely on deforestation, but also in helping ensure greater stability of supply.”

“What we’ve been able to achieve with Rewild is very special,” Haeckels managing director Charlie Vickery told Dazed Digital. “We very firmly believe that lab-grown ingredients are the next frontier for sustainability. The resource intensity of farming natural ingredients is staggering; what C16 Biosciences has done through their efforts is replicate something made by nature but in a much less resource intensive – and destructive – manner.”

While, the Rewild Body Block isn’t the only future-thinking eco-innovation in the soap industry – Canadian startup CleanO2 uses captured carbon and beer to make a climate-negative body soap, for example – it’s a major win for consumer brands looking to ditch palm oil as part of their environmental targets.

And now, C16, which raised $20M in a Series A round in 2020, aims to harness Palmless’s power across a wide range of consumer packaged goods applications, including beauty, personal care, home care and food.

The post This Soap Bar Is Made From Deforestation-Free Palmless Oil And Smells Like The Rainforest Burning appeared first on Green Queen.

We all want to live a little lighter on earth, but making waste-free choices doesn’t mean that we have to sacrifice on our favourite bath, body and skincare products. Read on for some inspiration to eliminate waste from your daily routine the DIY way with zero-waste bathroom essentials. 

You might be wondering: how can we really avoid all that plastic packaging in our everyday toiletries? We’re here to help. Here, we’ve put together some of our favourite low-impact bath and beauty recipes with ingredients that can all be purchased either in sustainable reusable packaging or in bulk stores.

1. Charcoal face mask

You literally only need 3 ingredients for this mask – baking soda, activated charcoal, and bentonite clay. Once you mix it all up, leave it on for around 10 minutes before washing it off. 

Recipe: Going Zero Waste

2. Sugar body scrub 

Time to exfoliate? Make a sugar scrub. We love this recipe that uses anti-inflammatory coconut oil, sugar, and a fragrant lemon essential oil. You can keep the scrub in a glass jar to keep in your bathroom for next time. 

Recipe: Adrienne Elizabeth

3. Face serum 

We’ve heard loads of beauty experts say that hyaluronic acid serum is the secret to keeping skin wrinkle-free and preventing dullness. But that doesn’t mean we need to go out and buy the product in a single-use bottle – it can easily be made at home using hyaluronic acid powder, rose water and your favourite essential oil. 

Recipe: The Coconut Mama

4. Toothpaste

Most conventional toothpaste come in a non-recyclable tube, so a great way to eliminate waste in your morning and evening routine is to make your own toothpaste. You’ll need coconut oil, baking soda and peppermint essential oil. 

Recipe: Wholehearted Eats

5. Makeup remover

You’ve got your reusable makeup rounds, but what about the remover? You can DIY a bottle using a combination of melted coconut, almond, sunflower and olive oil. 

Recipe: Greenify Me

Lead image courtesy of Pinterest.

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When it comes to natural beauty advice, how about implementing the same approach with our self-care and beauty routine as we do with our food?

In a time when we find ourselves more glued to screens than ever, not to mention, getting more anxious from the incessant news cycle, putting on a homemade face mask (not the cloth one we are wearing in public spaces!) can be a hugely beneficial use of time. This is why we have rounded up some of our fave DIY face mask recipes below.

Sitting calmly and quietly for 15-20 minutes with a refreshing and nourishing face mask give you a window to self-reflect, be mindful and even meditate! Plus, you’re helping your skin (our largest organ, did you know?) And here’s the best part: you’ve got all the ingredients for the below recipes in your fridge and pantry. Well, most

1. Get fresh with cucumber

Cucumber is one of the most common veggies found in salads. It lightens, brightens, and hydrates our skin while feeding us with vitamins A, B1, C, potassium and others. There are as many cucumber facial mask recipes as food recipes!

What you’ll need:

• cucumbers slices
• blender/food processor is optional for some
• other ingredients depending on the end skin goal

Check out these 7 recipes on Siobeauty

2. Heal yourself with turmeric

We already know turmeric is a superfood and great to consume but did you know it’s brilliant for your skin? From reducing inflammation and hyperpigmentation to treating acne and skin irritation – turmeric has got you covered.

What You’ll Need:

For most masks, mixing lukewarm water and turmeric is enough. Depending on your target areas, you could also add other ingredients like bananas, coconut oil and avocado.

Get more recipes on Healthline

3. Rejuvenate with coffee & pumpkin

Are you a regular coffee drinker? You probably already know about the health effects of drinking coffee but did you know that coffee grounds are incredibly beneficial for you once applied to your skin? Coffee is a natural exfoliator and can immediately and efficiently remove dead skin cells, all while boosting collagen.

What You’ll Need:

• ground coffee beans
• pureed pumpkin

Get the full recipe at Bebeautiful

4. Go bananas & soothe

What You’ll Need:

• 2 tbsp banana (ripe and mashed)
• 1 tsp baking soda
• ½ tsp turmeric powder

Get the recipe at Stylecraze

5. Hydrate yourself with flaxseed (yes, really)

Flaxseed contains Omega-3s that will hydrate your skin and leave you with a glowing finish. Put it on your skin in the evening and by morning, you will feel like you have new skin!

What You’ll Need:

• 1 tsp ground flaxseed
• 1 tbsp warm water

Get the recipe at Mamasezz

Lead image courtesy of Unsplash.

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What’s in your natural beauty products? There may be hidden animal ingredients.

Contrary to popular belief, not all natural beauty products are vegan-friendly. Just because they don’t contain synthetics doesn’t mean they don’t use animal-derived ingredients, which is considered “natural”. Here are some ingredients that are commonly found in everything from make-up to facial creams that are actually derived from animal sources and are not suitable for vegans. 

1. Squalene

Squalene is often used in skincare products due to its anti-aging properties, but it’s often harvested from the livers of sharks. The name itself originates from the Squalidae family of sharks, where the compound was first discovered and extracted from. It is now commonly used in lip balms, tanning oils, creams and moisturisers. Some brands do use vegan squalane (with an a, not an e), which is made from plant-based ingredients like olives and wheat germ. 

Read more about the beauty industry’s use of squalene here. 

2. Carmine

Carmine, a red colourant, is commonly found in blush, nail varnish and lipsticks in the cosmetics industry. It’s also widely used as a dye in the food industry, colouring everything from sweets and baked goods to seasonings and jams. It comes from cochineal insects, which are crushed to extract their crimson colour to make this dye. On ingredient lists, carmine can also be hidden under the names natural red 4, E120 and CI 75470. 

3. Guanine

Guanine is derived from the scales of fish and is used for its shiny, shimmery qualities. The crystalline compound made from crushed fish scales is mostly used in nail varnishes, lipsticks, eyeshadows, highlighters, bronzers and some mascaras too. 

4. Honey

Contrary to popular belief, vegan beauty products should not contain honey. Honey comes from bees, which makes it an animal-derived ingredient and not animal or cruelty-free. This byproduct of nature’s pollinators are often used in body balms, scrubs, lotions and creams. 

Read more about why honey isn’t vegan here. 

5. Lanolin

Lanolin comes from sheep’s wool and acts as an emollient in beauty products, meaning it softens and soothes the skin. Lanolin is most often found in lip balms and glosses, hair products like conditioners and face and body creams or moisturisers. There are some plant-based lanolin alternatives, which brands will specify if they are derived from plant fats such as olive oil, coconut oil or shea butter. 

6. Shellac

Shellac is an amber coloured resin that is made from the tiny scale insect called the lac. Because of its thermoplastic qualities and glossy appearance, shellac is used in nail varnish and hair lacquers. 

7. Glycerine

Glycerine is used as a moisturising agent and is found in a wide range of beauty products, but most commonly in soaps. While there are plant-based glycerine, which will be specified on the ingredient list as coming from vegetable origins like soya, coconut oil or palm oil, many are derived from animal fats. 

8. Collagen

Collagen is prized for its anti-aging properties, so is widely used in beauty products that are aimed at improving the skin’s elasticity or reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The fibrous protein comes from the tissues and bones of animals, as well as animal skins, ligaments and tendons. Most of the collagen used in the industry comes from beef or fish. 

All images courtesy of Unsplash, unless otherwise credited.

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The holidays are upon us, and, for many, that equals food (lots and lots of food), quality time with family and friends, glasses of bubbly, and, of course, presents. But the holiday gifting season can be unnecessarily wasteful, with millions of products wrapped in plastic. However, if you want to treat your loved ones, but you’re trying to limit your impact on the planet, it is possible to give more sustainable gifts this Christmas and holiday season.

From planet-forward foodies to plant-based fashionistas to climate-conscious bookworms, we’ve put together a guide to the most environmentally-friendly presents to buy this year – with a focus on plastic-free materials and packaging, ethical and vegan brands, and sustainably-designed products. (And remember to buy recyclable wrapping paper and decorations too.) Happy shopping!

For the planet-forward foodie:

1. The Green Queen Zero Waste Vegan Meal Plan & Recipe eBook

Food waste is a major issue. In fact, research suggests that globally, around 2.5 billion tons of food is wasted every single year. But there are ways we can each try to reduce this number, and one of them is by being more conscious of how we cook. Green Queen’s Zero Waste Vegan Meal Plan & Recipe eBook talks the reader through how to create tasty, innovative, plant-based recipes, all while minimizing waste in the kitchen.

2. Moonshot Climate-Friendly Crackers

The first rule of holiday soirées: never turn up empty-handed. Produced with a small planet-friendly supply chain, Moonshot crackers are as delicious as they are sustainable. They come in three different flavors (Sourdough Sea Salt, Rosemary Garlic, and Margherita Pizza) and are the perfect addition to a festive sharing board.

3. Seasonal recipe calendar

For the loved one who enjoys cooking up a storm in the kitchen, give the gift of monthly recipes. (And perhaps New Year’s Resolution inspiration!) On this calendar by Rocio Egio, each month comes complete with a recipe card (printed on recycled paper) which walks the reader through new exciting dishes, each made with seasonal fruits and vegetables.

4. Sustainable vegan wine

Cameron Diaz is known predominantly for her movie roles, but lately, the star has moved into the world of vegan, sustainable wine. Her brand Avaline, which she founded with her friend Katherine Power, offers delicious, sophisticated wines, all produced with 100 percent organic grapes. For the pal who loves a tipple, a bottle of the Cabernet Sauvignon or the Granache Blanc is a must-buy.

For the plant-based fashionista:

5. Vintage bag from a resale platform

For that someone who just exudes great style and loves handbags, don’t trawl the high street or luxury labels to find them something new. Make your gift more sustainable by choosing a resale platform instead. The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective, and Depop are some of the best marketplaces to find a vintage gem for your pal, handbags included.

6. Plant-based sneakers

Most of the sneakers on the market are either made with leather or plastic-derived synthetics, neither of which are great for the planet. But good news: you can buy the sneakerhead in your life sustainable kicks instead. Unless Collective’s stylish statement Degenerate sneakers, for example, are made with plants and minerals thanks to materials by leading plastic-free plant-based materials maker Natural Fiber Welding.

7. Plant-based tee

For your vegan loved one who wants everyone to know about it (and why wouldn’t they?), a statement tee is a winner. These options by Vegan Outfitters, which include everything from a simple “Kale” slogan to “Yes, I get enough f*cking protein,” are made with soft, WRAP-certified cotton, and will arrive in plastic-free packaging.

8. Pay for a repair

If you know a pal who just ripped their favorite pair of jeans, or damaged their beloved winter sweater, instead of buying something new, treat them to a repair this holiday season. Platforms like Make Nu or Sojo, dubbed the Deliveroo of clothing repairs, charge for creative repair services on all sorts of garments, or you could find a local seamstress in their area and ask for a quote.

For the sustainable homebody:

9. Coconut wax candles

There’s nothing like that feeling of settling down for the evening by turning down the lights, grabbing a cozy blanket and a good book, and lighting a candle. Mar Mar, which is based in Los Angeles, offers hand-poured scented coconut wax candles in reusable glass jars in a variety of scents. But if you can’t pick just one, it also offers mini gift sets. 

10. Climate-negative soap

By now, most of us know that carbon dioxide is bad for the atmosphere. But it is possible to capture CO2 and use it to make things, like soap. This quirky and unique vegan Body Bar by CleanO2 is made with captured carbon and beer, and thanks to the addition of geranium oils, smells delicious.

11. Low-waste skincare

For many, their nightly skincare routine is a calming and enjoyable ritual. If you know someone who never hits the hay without pampering their face first, treat them to Mono Skincare’s nourishing Face Moisturizer, which minimizes packaging waste thanks to the refillable bottle design or one of their dissolvable skincare pastilles, a zero packaging option. All the products are vegan and made with certified organic ingredients where possible.

For the nature-loving fitness fanatic:

12. Yulex rubber wetsuits

Watersports lovers usually end up having to wear wetsuits made from neoprene, a synthetic rubber material, which, unfortunately, harms the environment through its manufacturing process. But now, some brands, like Patagonia, offer more sustainable wetsuits made from Yulex, a plant-based neoprene alternative. 

13. Plastic-free flip flops

If you know a gymaholic, they might be grateful to receive a pair of flip-flops to wear after that post-workout shower. While many options on the market are made from plastic, there are alternatives. Waves Flip Flops, for example, are made with natural rubber.

14. Seed bombs

For your outdoorsy friend, who always loves working away in the garden or heading out to trek in the wilderness, a seed bomb is a great gift. This is an easy and fun way of spreading about wildflowers, which attract vital pollinators, like bees. Platforms like Etsy, for example, are packed with uniquely crafted seed bomb options (and as a bonus, you can support the local artisans in your area).

For the climate-conscious bookworm:

15. ‘The Climate Book’

In the fall of 2022, world-famous teen activist Greta Thunberg released “The Climate Book,” with the help of more than 100 experts in the climate field. This is a great gift for anyone experiencing a little bit of climate anxiety; it is intended to be a source of hope and motivation for action. 

16. ‘Regenesis’

Activist and writer George Monbiot is one of the most influential voices in the climate movement. With this thought-provoking book, “Regenesis: Feeding the World without Devouring the Planet,” he guides the reader through the need for food system transformation, and the innovative solutions that are right in front of us when it comes to sustainably feeding the world’s population.

17. ‘The Ministry for the Future’

Described as “a masterpiece of the imagination,” this book by Kim Stanley Robinson, which impactfully envisions how climate change will begin to impact all of our lives, has Barack Obama’s approval. So if it’s good enough for a former president, it’s good enough for your loved one this Christmas.

For activist kiddos: 

18. ‘The Last Straw: Kids vs. Plastics’

“The Last Straw” was written for kids, but it’s inspirational for their parents and caregivers too. It discusses the issue of plastic pollution but also introduces children to the solutions, and all of the young activists working together to help protect the oceans. It’s guaranteed to turn your little one into a budding environmental activist.

19. Non-toxic eco fingerpaints

For the little artist in your life, gift these finger paints from Eco-Kids. All of the paints are made with natural, food-safe, organic ingredients, like potatoes and beans (so you don’t have to worry so much about fingers in mouths!).

20. Bug House Hotel

Get your little one interested in nature with this cute Eco-Friendly Bug House Hotel. Made with environmentally-friendly materials, it’s ideal for teaching kids all about butterflies, bees, ladybirds, and other insects, and the important role they play in the world.

Lead image courtesy of Pexels.

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